Color me VERY happy! I still have minor fixes to do here and there, but for all intents and purposes, I'm done with the redesign.
And the stories here (go, click on Italy, the second box) are finally told in the settings I always wanted them in.
(Insert large sigh of contentment here.)
What are you waiting for? Go, look at the new homepage, click around the site, come back here and tell me it's gorgeous! Go!